I’m talking about, of course, the local pizzaiolo (pizza maker) who in his pizza van stops in most of the bigger local villages once a week and churns out wonderful thin crust, wood fired pizzas for the hungry villagers.
I have always considered the French pizzaiolos to be the true International Men of Mystery, not only because of their astonishing pizzas, but because their movements seem to be dictated by no earthly laws.
However, at the moment you can find our local (and very, very good) pizzaiolo parked in his pizza van on Villers-la-Faye’s Salle des Fêtes pretty much every Thursday evening. This is right beside Jacky’s store / bistro, which is currently being renovated by its new owners.
He generally arrives in a cloud of pizza fumes at sometime between 6:30 and 7:00pm and he is there, taking orders and making pizzas, until at least 10:00pm.
The routine goes like this; you trot down the road (if you are staying at La Maison des Chaumes) or up the road (if you are staying La Maison de la Vieille Vigne) or through the vineyards (if you are staying in La Maison des Deux Clochers) and order your pizza, or pizzas – they’re very good, and make yummy leftovers. Monsieur Pizzaiolo will always tell you when you can come back to pick them up – usually anywhere from between 20 to 45 minutes depending on how busy things are.
When you come to pick up your piping hot pizza, you pay him by either cash or cheque. International Men of Mystery don’t take credit cards; that gets the government involved…. By the way, the choice of toppings is truly dizzying, and if you are feeling adventurous you should really consider trying the escargot one for a true Italian–Burgundian experience.
Here is “Le Napolitain” (our local pizzaiolo)’s schedule at the moment;
Monday – He’s in the nearby village of Pernand–Vergelesses
Tuesday – He is in the village of Flagey–Echezeaux, a bit farther afield
Wednesday – Corcelles–les-Arts, again far afield
Thursday – VILLERS-LA-FAYE!!! HOORAY!!!
Friday – Bligny–les–Beaune (bit far afield)
Saturday – Ladoix–Serrigny (just down the hill from La Maison des Deux Clochers)
Sunday – A well-earned day of rest for pizzaiolos.
*”Authentic France Travel Tips” are posted every Tuesday and give ideas for savvy travellers who want to experience the authentic side of France.